Trieste, Italy to Amsterdam, The Netherlands

8 - 14 September 2024

 

       

Total Distance: 448 km

Total Climb: 3 695 m

Over the Alps: 362 km

Over the Alps: 3 420 m

Over the Alps: 25 hours

 

 

 

Sunday 8 September 2024

Amsterdam to Cervignano del Friuli Velocipede B&B 

Distance: 16 + 17 = 33 km

Hours:  53 + 57 = 1 hour 50 minutes

 

 I woke up at 5:00 AM, and by 6:00, I was ready and on my bike, cycling to the airport. The weather was cool, with no wind—a good start. At the airport, I found the office where I could buy a bike box, packed my bike, and checked in. All well!

 

After a layover in Rome, I arrived in Trieste, Northern Italy. I collected my bike, assembled it, and was set for the 17-kilometer ride to my B&B for the night. Then, the rain started pouring down—I could barely see ahead! But cycling in winter in 0°C with rain and wind in the Netherlands, this thunderstorm with no wind and a temperature of 22°C felt like a breeze.

 

Tomorrow, I plan to cross the border into Austria!

 

Day 1. Monday 9 September 2024

Cervignano del Friuli to Arnoldstein. Hotel Wallnerwirt

 

Distance: 156 km

Total Climb: 1 226 m

Hours: 10 hours 10 minutes

 

It was a day I won’t easily forget. Before I left, I had a brief exchange with the lady at the guest house. I mentioned my plans to cycle to Villach, she responded, "In one day? And you do it the difficult way! Everyone else is cycling the other way - down the mountains." I left in the rain, and the first three hours were nothing but rain and rain and fierce headwinds—at one point, the wind was so strong that staying on the bike felt almost impossible. I couldn’t keep my eyes open without my protective glasses, and even then, the rain made it difficult to see.

 

Eventually, the weather cleared, but that only led to three hours of cycling on a muddy gravel road alongside the Moser River. Beautiful, but full of water puddles and even a tree blocking the way. I had to dismount, wrestle my bike with all my luggage over the trunk, only to feel the sharp sting of a nettle against my leg. I got back on the bike, trying to ignore the pain and push forward. A spiritual lesson, I thought: when life hurts, keep moving towards your goal, and try not to focus on the pain of the moment.

 

Things finally improved. I stopped at a filling station for a much-needed cheese toastie and coffee. The gravel turned into a smooth, paved path—once a railway line—and the kilometers began to fly by, even with the steady climb up the Alps. As my overnight host had said, I noticed a constant stream of cyclists passing me in the opposite direction – downhill for them! It seemed I was the only one going up the Alps, climbing 1,250 meters in total for the day.

 

As night began to fall, I found myself just a few kilometers from my destination, but it was already nearly 20:00. I was eagerly anticipating a good meal and some rest when Google Maps sounded: "You have reached your destination." I was in the middle of nowhere! My bike lights were fading, and there was no sign of civilization in sight.

 

I wandered around, walking a few hundred meters in different directions, hoping Google Maps would recalibrate, but it didn’t. An hour passed, yet oddly, I didn’t panic. Something inside reassured me that everything would be fine. God always sends help when I’m at my wit's end, and just then, as I was on the phone with the guesthouse lady, trying to get directions, but had no idea what she tried to say, a car pulled up beside me. The driver asked if I needed help. "Yes," I admitted, "I’m completely lost."

 

We were actually on the off-ramp of an Autobahn, not the safe! And we moved to a safer location. The driver tried speaking to the lady from the guest house but couldn’t quite follow her instructions either. Eventually, she suggested I go to a hotel four kilometers away, and she’d cancel my original booking. The driver offered to take me there, but his car was packed, and he suggested I lock my bike to a pole and leave it behind. I was hesitant, said I would walk to the hotel but he would have none of it and reassured me my bike would be safe, so I locked it up and we drove to the hotel.

 

This man was a true Good Samaritan, sent by God—he helped carry my luggage inside and spoke with reception. As it turned out, the hotel was quite fancy, but the lady from my previous booking had negotiated a rate for me at half the usual price! I mentioned to my new friend that I hoped I’d find my bike the next morning. He pinned the location on Google Maps for me and gave me his number, just in case. ‘Phone me any time if you have problems finding your bike”

 

That night, I did not sleep well, worrying about my bike out there in the dark somewhere next to a highway. Early the next morning, I took a taxi and, was so happy to see my bike still locked up safely. Not that I doubted God’s protection also in this. After a really good breakfast, I set off for the day’s ride.

Despite everything, I managed to cover 156 kilometers. And as I pedalled away, I thought to myself: surely, things can only get better from here!

 

Day 2. Tuesday 10 September 2024

Arnoldstein to Mallnitz, Pension Edlinger

 

Distance: 110 km

Total Climb: 1 185 m

Hours: 8 hours 11 minutes

 

 After a good  healthy breakfast, that was included in the price, I was ready to go! Feeling happy to have my bike, I packed my luggage and set off, feeling strong and excited, even though I knew I had over a thousand meters to climb up the Alps. Cyclists passed me as they sped downhill. The road surface was decent, and the climb was steady.

 

Then, something unexpected happened—a real curveball. I was cycling on a bike path and needed to cross a bridge over a road. The bridge was fairly wide, and there were five people walking across it at the same time. I didn’t slow down much, as there was plenty of space to pass safely. I noticed an old train track on the bridge, and coming from Amsterdam, I knew I had to avoid it to prevent my wheel from getting caught.

 

However, I was focused on the people sharing the bridge with me, and suddenly, my front wheel got caught in the track. I managed to pull it out, but I lost my balance and veered off to the right—straight into the steel railings of the bridge at some speed. I slammed into the railing with my right shoulder, my neck twisting the other way, and my head hitting the metal.

 

Suddenly, all five people were around me, helping me get up. My bike's handlebars were tangled in the railings, and it was a real struggle to free them. "Sit down, sit down. Just rest a moment before you go further," they urged. But I insisted, "No, I’m okay. I’d rather keep moving." So I cycled off, but soon realized my brake and gear handle were bent completely to one side. After some forceful adjustments, I managed to bend it back.

 

It wasn’t until a day or two later that I noticed a large blue bruise on my right shoulder. I also felt a sharp pain in one of my ribs whenever I used my chest muscles. But overall, I was okay.

 

After about a total of 90 kilometers cycling this day, I realized I had only climbed about 300 meters. With another 700 meters climbing to go in just the last 20 kilometers, I had some concern! Then it began — the road got steeper and steeper, and I slowed down more and more.

 

Once again, Google Maps failed me, leading me onto bike paths that weren't suitable for any type of bike — not even a 4x4 vehicle. The path was so steep that I could barely push my bike uphill. It was covered in loose stones and barely resembled a road. I had no choice but to turn around; it wasn't even possible to cycle downhill. The road was completely unfit for any vehicle, let alone a bicycle!

 

After a few kilometers, I reached the motorway and decided to stick with it. By then, daylight was fading. I checked my lights and set off again. Soon, even this road became so steep that I had to get off my bike and push it for kilometers, all in the pitch-black darkness of the night. Eventually, I made it to the top.

 

I hadn’t pre-booked any accommodation for the night, but Google Maps showed that there might be a place to stay about two kilometers ahead. I cycled to that point, but to my dismay, it turned out to be just a gathering place for hunters who were testing their rifles.

 

I went back to Google Maps and Booking.com and found a place 5 kilometers further. I set off in the dark, riding on the road with cars passing me. I had reflective clothing and good lights, so I wasn't too worried. Fortunately, the road started to go downhill toward Mallnitz. I arrived at my accommodation just after 20:30.

 

It was a wonderful place, run by a young Dutch couple who had recently bought the B&B. When I arrived, the lady asked if I wouldn’t mind staying in a double room instead of a single, as someone had cancelled their reservation. For the same price! Of course, I agreed! By now, it was 21:00, and I mentioned that I had only had two slices of pizza during the entire day, left over from my previous night that I took along with me. I was really hungry and wondered if there was any place I could get some food.

 

They didn’t serve dinner at the B&B, but she quickly called the nearest restaurant. Unfortunately, it was closing at 21:00. She kindly offered to make me some food herself. I said I’d be fine with just a cheese sandwich, but she returned with a much more generous plate: ham, cheese, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes — a whole meal. She didn’t charge me a thing. God is good!

 

I think she felt a connection because I was also from the Netherlands and wanted to be extra kind and friendly.

During this second day’s cycling, I was still utterly amazed by how strong my legs felt and how easily I managed the steep inclines despite the weight on the bike, even if I was forced to walk on the impossible inclines. No cramps, minimal muscle fatigue, and my knees felt great. That evening, I sat down to read from my Bible, still filled with amazement. And it was Psalm 89:18. ‘God, You are my glorious strength. It pleases You to make me strong. Yes, my protection comes from the Lord’.

 

I had a great night’s sleep, and the next morning, a wonderful breakfast. After that, I set off for the last bit of the climb — about 500 meters left to cross the Alps and start the descent on the other side.

  

 

Day 3. Wednesday 11 September 2024

Mallnitz (Bad Gastein) to Golling an der Salzach, Gasthof Goldene Traube

 

Distance: 9 + 87 = 96 km                    Over the Alps: 362 km

Total Climb: 103 + 1 006 = 1 109 m   Over the Alps: 3 420 m

Hours: 7 hours 0 minutes                    Over the Alps: 25 hours

 

Like a homing pigeon flying in circles before finding its direction, I often have to cycle in a few different directions before I’m sure where Google Maps is pointing me. That morning, it led me through three different streets in town that made no sense. Eventually, I headed out of the city, and after about 500 meters, it told me to turn left. But once again, this road wasn’t suitable for any bicycle, so I continued uphill, on the road I was on, further and further away from the city. The climb was steep, as expected.

 

But I had a very uncomfortable feeling about the road I was on. After about five kilometers, a local man came cycling down the hill. I stopped him and asked if I was on the way to Salzburg. "Oh no," he said, in broken English, while I tried to communicate in my broken German. He explained that I had to go to the train station and take a train. But I thought, no, I want to cycle over the Alps — no train until it's absolutely necessary!

 

I cycled back to town and saw a group of cyclists with luggage on their bikes. Knowing they were either arriving or leaving, I stopped to ask them for directions. They told me, "Yes, this is the town where you have to take the train through the tunnel to the other side of the Alps. There’s no other way — by car or bike — to cross the Alps from here."

 

So, I followed their directions to the train station, about two kilometers away. Unfortunately, I missed the train by 20 seconds! Rude man at the ticket office closed the door in my face! I sat down for a cappuccino and an ice cream while waiting for the next one, which would arrive in an hour. This train runs through the tunnel every hour in both directions, carrying cars and bicycles to the other side of the mountain.

 

Soon enough, I was on the train, heading through the tunnel – about a 15-minute ride. When I arrived on the other side, I collected my bike, asked for directions, and felt excited — I was finally on the top of the Alps! From here, it would be all downhill into Salzburg, though still more than a day away.

 

I began cycling down at a nice speed, but Google Maps didn’t seem to want me to enjoy myself. It took me onto nearly impossible roads again, some with steep inclines. At one point, I found myself on a road that was actually a set of steps, so steep that I could barely get my bike down – the bike and I were sliding down! That was when I thought, "This is the end of Google Maps for me." I decided to follow the main road instead.

 

After losing nearly two hours due to the Google Maps detours, the rest of the day went smoothly and pleasantly. I continued cycling downhill until I reached the beautiful town of Golling an der Salzach, with its centuries-old buildings and lovely hotel.

 

At the hotel reception, I met another cyclist, and we started chatting. He kindly showed me where I could store my bike for the night. I checked in just in time for dinner. The cheapest meal on the menu was bratwurst, sauerkraut, and potatoes, which I thoroughly enjoyed. Never had it before!

 

The restaurant was packed, and I sat at the last available table, which had space for five or six more people. When a group came in looking for seats, I invited them to join me. It turned out to be five German men, and we had a pleasant conversation before I retired to bed.

 

The next morning, I had a nice breakfast and, full of excitement and energy, set off for another day of cycling. Even tough it was raining and getting fairly cold

 

So, I made it across the Alps — not easy, but it’s done! Now, I just have to make it through Germany and back home, which will take about another week!

          

Day 4. Thursday 12 September 2024

Golling an der Salzach to Tiesendorf via Salzburg (Ulm)

 

Distance: 53 km

Total Climb: 275 m

Hours: 3 hours 33 minutes

 

As I cycled towards Salzburg, it kept raining, though not too heavily. However, I noticed the temperature was dropping. Just a week ago, it had been 30°C in this area, but now it had fallen to 8°C. I didn’t have winter clothes or proper rain gear with me, so my hands and feet were wet and getting colder and colder and the rest of my body slowly followed. After about two hours, I reached Salzburg and then turned west towards Münich, heading into the wind. The cold continued to creep in, and I was getting colder by the minute.

 

I stopped and drank all the coffee I had with me, hoping it would warm me up. Whenever I hit an uphill section, I was actually glad, as the slower pace meant less wind chill and my body started to warm up from the harder work. But once I reached the top and started going downhill, the cold wind hit me hard, chilling my wet clothes and body even more. I could feel my core temperature dropping, and I was getting dangerously cold.

 

I cycled through one village and then headed towards the next, telling myself that once I got there, I’d find a café or somewhere to get a hot drink and warm up. In the next half hour, though, I kept getting colder to the point where I thought, "This isn’t good." As I entered the village of Tiesendorf, I wondered if I should start looking for a train, as I didn’t think I could continue like this and stay safe, even stay alive!

 

Then with this thought, at a crossing, I noticed a sign in the distance that said "Bahnhof" (train station). I cycled closer to confirm it, and indeed, it said the station was 1 kilometer away. If that was not God! I headed in that direction and stopped the first man I saw to ask if this was the way to the station and if I could take my bike on the train. He kindly confirmed both, giving me clear directions.

 

I arrived at the station, which was in a tiny village with no one around except one person. God again! I asked him where I could buy a ticket, and he helped me purchase one from a ticket machine. He also explained that I needed to get to the other side of the tracks, as the train to Münich was on the opposite platform. The train was leaving in 10 minutes, so I hurried to the stairs.

 

Getting my bike and luggage down the stairs was slow and painful, but going up the other side was even harder. I was so cold that my muscles weren’t cooperating. Step by step, I struggled up, but with only a third of the stairs behind me and few minutes before the train would depart, four young men and a girl came around the corner and, in a flash, carried my bike up to the platform. Even helped onto the train! God again, just when I need it! Soon enough, I was on the train.

 

Once seated, I was so cold that I couldn’t remove my helmet; my muscles were actually too cold to function. The train ride to Münich took about 90 minutes, and I remained wet and freezing the entire way. My friend Bettina from Mercy Ships was planning to meet me in Münich, so I messaged her, and she kindly offered to pick me up at the station.

 

When I arrived in Münich, I immediately looked for a Starbucks to buy some coffee and try to warm up. As I walked outside the station, my body was shaking from the cold. I couldn’t believe that other people were still cycling, but then again, they hadn’t been cycling for five hours in wet clothes against a headwind. I knew my core temperature was still really low.

 

I sat in Starbucks, sipping my coffee, until Bettina messaged me that she was waiting outside the station. As soon as I stepped outside again, I started shaking from the cold again. I was relieved to sit in her car with the heater on. She had brought a blanket, some nuts, and snacks to help me recover. Slowly, I started to feel more comfortable.

 

Bettina had driven 150 kilometers from Ulm to pick me up, and we again had 150 kilometers  to get back to her place. Only after a long, hot shower did I finally feel comfortable again.

 

I had to decide what to do next. Should I attempt to continue cycling, or was the weather too dangerous to proceed?

 

As my dear  friend Guido always says, "It’s not bad weather, it’s clothing," and in this case, I certainly didn’t have the right clothes for these conditions. The forecast was rain, cold, and headwinds all the way back home. I decided to sleep on it and make a decision the next morning.

 

The next morning, I checked the weather again: rain, cold, and wind all the way. After discussing it with Bettina, she kindly bought me a train ticket back to Amsterdam. God is good.

 

I felt so disappointed that I couldn’t complete what I set out to do. It took me some time to process this ‘failure’, but I know I’m not the first person whose plans have been derailed by unexpected bad weather.

 

Friday 13 September 2024

Ulm

 

I had a very good, long sleep. The next morning, we had breakfast, and then Bettina took me into town to buy some basic groceries. She had to leave in the afternoon for a conference with the hospital where she works, so she dropped me off in the center of Ulm, a town known for having the tallest church tower in the world (172 meters!), the Lutheran Ulm Minster Church. She recommended that I take a half-city tour, which I thoroughly enjoyed.

 

Ulm is also the city where Albert Einstein was born, you know e=mc². This famous formula is also on one of the stain glass windows of the church!

One thing I really enjoyed from the tour was an old saying our guide shared, a well-known phrase in the town over the centuries: "If it moves, greet it. If it doesn't move, polish it." I found it quite inspiring!

 

After the city tour, I returned to Bettina's, spent a nice evening, had some good food, and got another good night's sleep.

 

Saturday 14 September 2024 Ulm to Amsterdam

 

The next morning, at 7:00 a.m., I was back on my bike, cycling 7 kilometers to the train station to catch the ICE, a high-speed train that travels up to 270 km/h – a bit faster than the bike! It only stops at stations for a minute or two, so you need to know exactly where to stand so you can board immediately.

 

That made me a bit nervous, but I spotted another cyclist on the platform and asked him for advice. He was a very friendly guy from Zaandam, which is close to Amsterdam. He had also decided to abandon his bike tour because of the bad weather and was heading home on the train. He kindly explained where and how to board, and even accompanied me through the transfer in Frankfurt.

 

It was a very pleasant train journey, and I arrived in Amsterdam on Saturday afternoon at 15:30.

 

At least I can say I have cycled across the Alps

Over the Alps:

Distance:                                362 km

Meters climbed:                     3 420 m

Hours in the saddle:              25 hours